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Friday, October 10, 2008

How To Replace The CMOS Battery In Your PC

How To Replace The CMOS Battery In Your PC

Most PC users don't think much about the CMOS battery until their computer shows signs of losing its BIOS settings on boot up. If you tend to upgrade rather than replace your PC, replacing the CMOS battery every couple of years makes sense.

Likewise, if you purchase a used PC, battery replacement is a good idea unless the PC is less than two years old. It's just one more preventive step you can take to prevent troubles in the future.

If you have never replaced a CMOS battery before, you can find step-by-step instructions below.

In most cases, frequent CMOS errors are a sign of a dead battery. The CMOS battery maintains your settings while your PC is powered off. You can easily replace the battery yourself.

Difficulty Level: medium
Time Required: 10 minutes

Instructions:

  1. Boot your PC and enter its setup mode.

  2. Write down all of the settings from the various BIOS menus. Click this link to learn more about this procedure.

  3. Power off your PC.

  4. Open the case of your computer

    Undoing the screws on your PC caseUndoing the screws on your PC case
    Figures 1-2. Undoing the screws on your PC case.
    Openong tha case of your PC
    Figure 3. Opening the case of your PC.
  5. Locate the battery on the motherboard.

    Battery location on the motherboard
    Figure 4. Battery location on the motherboard.

    The layouts of the components differ on different motherboards, so you'll have to consult your motherboard user manual for specifications about the battery and its location.

    This is a close-up view of the battery on the motherboard.

    Typical CMOS battery
    Figure 5. Typical CMOS battery.

    The most common type of batteries used in modern PCs is coin-shaped lithium/manganese-dioxide battery that looks like a large watch battery.

  6. Obtain a replacement battery from a local or online computer parts dealer.

  7. Remove the old battery.

    Removing the old battery
    Figure 6. Removing the old battery.
  8. Replace it with the new one, as shown on the picture below.

    Replacing the battery
    Figure 7. Replacing the battery.
  9. Document the date of replacement for future reference.

  10. Replace the case and power on the PC.

  11. Enter the setup mode of your PC.

  12. Reenter the settings you have written down from the various setup menus.

Tips:

  1. Don't forget to observe proper anti-static precautions when working inside the case of your PC.

  2. If you can't see your battery right away, try removing expansion cards or unplugging cables. The majority of newer motherboards use lithium batteries that look like large watch batteries.

If the battery is already dead and you receive messages saying "CMOS checksum error", skip Step 1 and Step 2.

Access/Enter Motherboard BIOS

Bios Suppliers

Keyboard Commands

ALR Advanced Logic Research, Inc. ® PC / PCI F2
ALR PC non / PCI CTRL+ALT+ESC
AMD® (Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.) BIOS F1
AMI (American Megatrends, Inc.) BIOS DEL
Award™ BIOS CTRL+ALT+ESC
Award BIOS DEL
DTK® (Datatech Enterprises Co.) BIOS ESC
Phoenix™ BIOS CTRL+ALT+ESC
Phoenix BIOS CTRL+ALT+S
Phoenix BIOS CTRL+ALT+INS

Computer Vendor

Keyboard Commands

Acer® F1, F2, CTRL+ALT+ESC
ARI® CTRL+ALT+ESC, CTRL+ALT+DEL
AST® CTRL+ALT+ESC, CTRL+ALT+DEL
Compaq® 8700 F10
CompUSA® DEL
Cybermax® ESC
Dell BIOS web site search links For models not listed below.
Dell® 400 F3, F1
Dell 4400 F12
Dell Dimension® F2 or DEL
Dell Inspiron® F2
Dell Latitude Fn+F1 (while booted)
Dell Latitude F2 (on boot)
Dell Optiplex DEL
Dell Optiplex F2
Dell Precision™ F2
eMachine® DEL , F 2
Fujutsu Manuals & BIOS Manuals & BIOS Download
Gateway® 2000 1440 F1
Gateway 2000 Solo™ F2
HP® (Hewlett-Packard) F1, F2 (Laptop, ESC)
IBM® F1
E-pro Laptop F2
IBM PS/2® CTRL+ALT+INS after CTRL+ALT+DEL
IBM Thinkpad® (newer) Windows: Programs-Thinkpad CFG.
Intel® Tangent DEL
Lenovo(formerly IBM) Lenovo BIOS Access page
Micron® F1, F2, or DEL
Packard Bell® F1, F2, Del
Seanix DEL
Sony® VAIO F2
Sony VAIO F3
Tiger DEL
Toshiba® 335 CDS ESC
Toshiba Protege ESC
Toshiba Satellite 205 CDS F1
Toshiba Tecra ESC then F1 or F2

Toshiba Notebook [Newer models]

1. Turn on computer by Holding down power button while pressing the ESC key.
The machine will beep, then display:
Check System, then press [F1] key.
2. Release ESC key
3. Press F1 key

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Motherboards Setup & Installation

Installing Devices - Motherboards

This isn't real difficult if you follow along with your motherboard manual. The hardest part is setting it into the case. Before you put it in the case however, you must configure the motherboard. This is done with jumpers.

***Modern motherboards such as the Intel P4 and AMD XP/64 motherboards do not have any jumpers that need to be configured to get the system up and running. The odd jumper can be found on some connectors such as sound, usb power and the cmos. These jumpers do not have to be touched tho unless you want to clear your cmos or add a front sound port.

The jumpers on the old boards can be found on the motherboard as little plastic caps. These may be black, yellow, red, white and so on. They come in different colors depending on the company or manufacturer who made the board. You will have to set the clock frequency, CPU voltage and others. The best way to do this is refer to the motherboards manual. I cannot tell you what the jumper settings are for your mother board since there all different. If you do not have a manual, contact the manufacturer or look on there website. Many motherboard makers offer full schematics of there motherboards along with manuals in PDF format..

Picture of motherboard jumpers

-Also prior to installing the motherboard you will want to install the CPU, Heat sink, Fan and System Memory. Look at the procedures for these at: |CPU and Heatsink|Memory|

-If you got the motherboard configured you will need to pay attention to the case. Some cases have removable motherboard trays that aid in the installation of a motherboard, if so you are in good shape. Simply remove by unscrewing it from case. If you haven't you should still be ok, but it could be fiddly in a smaller case.

-Set Up Case-

-First you need to setup the case to except the motherboard. This is done with using brass standoffs or plastic retainers in combination. What you will need to do is set the motherboard in the case and align it. You want to get an idea of how it will fit into the case and the I/O shield on the back of case. Now, when you spot the holes on the case motherboard plate align the motherboard with them. Mark the holes so you will know were to screw your brass standoffs into.

The I/O Shield located on Back of System Case. Your case may have the wrong shield for your motherboard. The motherboard should have a replacement I/O shield with it.

-The reason we want to mark the holes for the brass standoffs is so you don't accidentally put one in the wrong place. If you do there is a chance (BIG) of shorting out the motherboard. If this happens there is a good chance you will need a new motherboard. I don't want to see this happen to you as it happened to others.

Screwing motherboard in ..snug
Motherboard in case

-Power-

-Now that motherboard is in case we need to hook up Power. The power connectors can be identified as a 20-Pin for the ATX and the 4 pin 12v square connector.

ATX 20 pin connector. Note the way the connector is keyed. You can only install one way.
4 pin 12v connector required for some Athlon XP/64 and Intel P4 processors.

-The connectors simply just plug into the motherboard. The 20 pin connector is a easy one that cant really be done wrong unless you force it. Even if installed wrong you will know something isn't right. The 12volt connector is similar in that it can only be put in the motherboard one way. You will hear them click when they are installed correctly.

Hook up busy light leads

-These leads are easy to hook up. Don't worry if you get them on the wrong post. If so you can always come back and try another way. The best way to do this is refer to the motherboard manual and look at the leads themselves. They are marked as seen below.

Indicator busy light leads

-That wasn't so hard now was it?

Motherboard

A motherboard is the central or primary printed circuit board (PCB) making up a complex electronic system, such as a modern computer or laptop. It is also known as a mainboard, baseboard, system board, planar board, or, on Apple computers, a logic board, and is sometimes abbreviated casually as mobo.

Most motherboards produced today are designed for so-called IBM-compatible computers, which held over 96% of the global personal computer market in 2005.[2] Motherboards for IBM-compatible computers are specifically covered in the PC motherboard article.

A motherboard, like a backplane, provides the electrical connections by which the other components of the system communicate, but unlike a backplane also contains the central processing unit and other subsystems such as real time clock, and some peripheral interfaces.

A typical desktop computer is built with the microprocessor, main memory, and other essential components on the motherboard. Other components such as external storage, controllers for video display and sound, and peripheral devices are typically attached to the motherboard via edge connectors and cables, although in modern computers it is increasingly common to integrate these "peripherals" into the motherboard.

All of the basic circuitry and components required for a computer to function are onboard the motherboard or are connected with a cable. The most important component on a motherboard is the chipset. It often consists of two components or chips known as the Northbridge and Southbridge, though they may also be integrated into a single component. These chips determine, to an extent, the features and capabilities of the motherboard.


Motherboard

An Acer E360 motherboard made by Foxconn, from 2005, with a large number of integrated peripherals.  This board's nForce3 chipset lacks a traditional northbridge.
An Acer E360 motherboard made by Foxconn, from 2005, with a large number of integrated peripherals. This board's nForce3 chipset lacks a traditional northbridge.

The motherboard of a typical desktop consists of a large printed circuit board. It holds electronic components and interconnects, as well as physical connectors (sockets, slots, and headers) into which other computer components may be inserted or attached.

Most motherboards include, at a minimum:

  • sockets (or slots) in which one or more microprocessors (CPUs) are installed[3]
  • slots into which the system's main memory is installed (typically in the form of DIMM modules containing DRAM chips)
  • a chipset which forms an interface between the CPU's front-side bus, main memory, and peripheral buses
  • non-volatile memory chips (usually Flash ROM in modern motherboards) containing the system's firmware or BIOS
  • a clock generator which produces the system clock signal to synchronize the various components
  • slots for expansion cards (these interface to the system via the buses supported by the chipset)
  • power connectors flickers, which receive electrical power from the computer power supply and distribute it to the CPU, chipset, main memory, and expansion cards.[4]
The Octek Jaguar V motherboard from 1993. This board has 6 ISA slots but few onboard peripherals, as evidenced by the lack of external connectors.
The Octek Jaguar V motherboard from 1993.[5] This board has 6 ISA slots but few onboard peripherals, as evidenced by the lack of external connectors.

Additionally, nearly all motherboards include logic and connectors to support commonly-used input devices, such as PS/2 connectors for a mouse and keyboard. Early personal computers such as the Apple II or IBM PC included only this minimal peripheral support on the motherboard. Occasionally video interface hardware was also integrated into the motherboard; for example on the Apple II, and rarely on IBM-compatible computers such as the IBM PC Jr. Additional peripherals such as disk controllers and serial ports were provided as expansion cards.

Given the high thermal design power of high-speed computer CPUs and components, modern motherboards nearly always include heatsinks and mounting points for fans to dissipate excess heat.

[edit] CPU sockets

Main article: CPU socket

[edit] Integrated peripherals

Diagram of a modern motherboard, which supports many on-board peripheral functions as well as several expansion slots.
Diagram of a modern motherboard, which supports many on-board peripheral functions as well as several expansion slots.

With the steadily declining costs and size of integrated circuits, it is now possible to include support for many peripherals on the motherboard. By combining many functions on one PCB, the physical size and total cost of the system may be reduced; highly-integrated motherboards are thus especially popular in small form factor and budget computers.

For example, the ECS RS485M-M,[6] a typical modern budget motherboard for computers based on AMD processors, has on-board support for a very large range of peripherals:

  • disk controllers for a floppy disk drive, up to 2 PATA drives, and up to 6 SATA drives (including RAID 0/1 support)
  • integrated ATI Radeon graphics controller supporting 2D and 3D graphics, with VGA and TV output
  • integrated sound card supporting 8-channel (7.1) audio and S/PDIF output
  • fast Ethernet network controller for 10/100 Mbit networking
  • USB 2.0 controller supporting up to 12 USB ports
  • IrDA controller for infrared data communication (e.g. with an IrDA enabled Cellular Phone or Printer)
  • temperature, voltage, and fan-speed sensors that allow software to monitor the health of computer components

Expansion cards to support all of these functions would have cost hundreds of dollars even a decade ago, however as of April 2007 such highly-integrated motherboards are available for as little as $30 in the USA.

[edit] Peripheral card slots

A typical motherboard of 2007 will have a different number of connections depending on its standard. A standard ATX motherboard will typically have 1x PCI-E 16x connection for a graphics card, 2x PCI slots for various expansion cards and 1x PCI-E 1x which will eventually supersede PCI.

A standard Super ATX motherboard will have 1x PCI-E 16x connection for a graphics card. It will also have a varying number of PCI and PCI-E 1x slots. It can sometimes also have a PCI-E 4x slot. This varies between brands and models.

Some motherboards have 2x PCI-E 16x slots to allow more than 2 monitors without special hardware or to allow use of a special graphics technology called SLI (for Nvidia) and Crossfire (for ATI). These allow 2 graphics cards to be linked together to allow better performance in intensive graphical computing tasks such as gaming and video editing.

As of 2007, virtually all motherboards come with at least 4x USB ports on the rear with at least 2 connections on the board internally for wiring additional front ports that are built into the computers case. Ethernet is also included now. This is a standard networking cable for connecting the computer to a network or a modem. A sound chip is always included on the motherboard to allow sound to be output without the need for any extra components. This allows computers to be far more multimedia based than before. Cheaper machines now often have their graphics chip built into the motherboard rather than a separate card.

[edit] Temperature and reliability

Motherboards are generally air cooled with heat sinks often mounted on larger chips, such as the northbridge, in modern motherboards. If the motherboard is not cooled properly, then this can cause the motherboard to crash. Passive cooling, or a single fan mounted on the power supply, was sufficient for many desktop computer CPUs until the late 1990s; since then, most have required CPU fans mounted on their heatsinks, due to rising clock speeds and power consumption. Most motherboards have connectors for additional case fans as well. Newer motherboards have integrated temperature sensors to detect motherboard and CPU temperatures, and controllable fan connectors which the BIOS or operating system can use to regulate fan speed.

Some small form factor computers and home theater PCs designed for quiet and energy-efficient operation boast fan-less designs. This typically requires the use of a low-power CPU, as well as careful layout of the motherboard and other components to allow for heat sink placement.

A 2003 study[7] found that some spurious computer crashes and general reliability issues, ranging from screen image distortions to I/O read/write errors, can be attributed not to software or peripheral hardware but to aging capacitors on PC motherboards. Ultimately this was shown to be the result of a faulty electrolyte formulation.[8]

For more information on premature capacitor failure on PC motherboards, see capacitor plague.

Motherboards use electrolytic capacitors to filter the DC power distributed around the board. These capacitors age at a temperature-dependent rate, as their water based electrolytes slowly evaporate. This can lead to loss of capacitance and subsequent motherboard malfunctions due to voltage instabilities. While most capacitors are rated for 2000 hours of operation at 105 °C,[9] their expected design life roughly doubles for every 10 °C below this. At 45 °C a lifetime of 15 years can be expected. This appears reasonable for a computer motherboard, however many manufacturers have delivered substandard capacitors,[citation needed] which significantly reduce life expectancy. Inadequate case cooling and elevated temperatures easily exacerbate this problem. It is possible, but tedious and time-consuming, to find and replace failed capacitors on PC motherboards; it is less expensive to buy a new motherboard than to pay for such a repair.[citation needed]

[edit] Form factor

Main article: Comparison of computer form factors

Motherboards are produced in a variety of sizes and shapes ("form factors"), some of which are specific to individual computer manufacturers. However, the motherboards used in IBM-compatible commodity computers have been standardized to fit various case sizes. As of 2007, most desktop computer motherboards use one of these standard form factors—even those found in Macintosh and Sun computers which have not traditionally been built from commodity components.

Laptop computers generally use highly integrated, miniaturized, and customized motherboards. This is one of the reasons that laptop computers are difficult to upgrade and expensive to repair. Often the failure of one laptop component requires the replacement of the entire motherboard, which is usually more expensive than a desktop motherboard due to the large number of integrated components.

[edit] Nvidia SLI and ATI Crossfire

Nvidia SLI and ATI Crossfire technology allows 2 or more of the same series graphics cards to be linked together to allow a faster graphics experience. Almost all medium to high end Nvidia cards and most high end ATI cards support the technology.

They both require compatible motherboards. There is an obvious need for 2x PCI-E 16x slots to allow 2 cards to be inserted into the computer. The same function can be acheived in 650i motherboards by NVIDIA, with a pair of x8 slots. Originally, tri-Crossfire was achieved at 8x speeds with 2 16x slots and 1 8x slot albeit at a slower speed. ATI opened the technology up to Intel in 2006 and such all new Intel chipsets support Crossfire.

SLI is a little more proprietary in its needs. It requires a motherboard with Nvidia's own NForce chipset series to allow it to run.

It is important to note that SLI and Crossfire will not usually scale to 2x the performance of a single card when using a dual setup. They also do not double the effective amount of VRAM or memory bandwidth.

[edit] History

Prior to the advent of the microprocessor, a computer was usually built in a card-cage case or mainframe with components connected by a backplane consisting of a set of slots themselves connected with wires; in very old designs the wires were discrete connections between card connector pins, but printed-circuit boards soon became the standard practice. The central processing unit, memory and peripherals were housed on individual printed circuit boards which plugged into the backplane.

During the late 1980s and 1990s, it became economical to move an increasing number of peripheral functions onto the motherboard (see above). In the late 1980s, motherboards began to include single ICs (called Super I/O chips) capable of supporting a set of low-speed peripherals: keyboard, mouse, floppy disk drive, serial ports, and parallel ports. As of the late 1990s, many personal computer motherboards support a full range of audio, video, storage, and networking functions without the need for any expansion cards at all; higher-end systems for 3D gaming and computer graphics typically retain only the graphics card as a separate component.

The early pioneers of motherboard manufacturing were Micronics, Mylex, AMI, DTK, Hauppauge, Orchid Technology, Elitegroup, DFI, and a number of Taiwan-based manufacturers.

Popular personal computers such as the Apple II and IBM PC had published schematic diagrams and other documentation which permitted rapid reverse-engineering and third-party replacement motherboards. Usually intended for building new computers compatible with the exemplars, many motherboards offered additional performance or other features and were used to upgrade the manufacturer's original equipment.

[edit] Bootstrapping using the BIOS

Main article: booting

Motherboards contain some non-volatile memory to initialize the system and load an operating system from some external peripheral device. Microcomputers such as the Apple II and IBM PC used read-only memory chips, mounted in sockets on the motherboard. At power up the central processor would load its program counter with the address of the boot ROM and start executing ROM instructions displaying system information on the screen and running memory checks, which would in turn start loading memory from an external or peripheral device (disk drive) if one isn't available then the computer can perform tasks from other memory stores or displays an error message depending on the model and design of the computer and version of the bios.

Most modern motherboard designs use a BIOS, stored in a EEPROM chip soldered to the motherboard, to bootstrap the motherboard. (Socketed BIOS chips are widely used, also.) By booting the motherboard, the memory, circuitry, and peripherals are tested and configured. This process is known ascomputer:

  • floppy drive
  • network controller
  • CD-ROM drive
  • DVD-ROM drive
  • SCSI hard drive
  • IDE, EIDE, or SATA hard drive
  • External USB memory storage device

Any of the above devices can be stored with machine code instructions to load an operating system or a program.


Increasing LAN speed

First go to the properties of the nic card and check the box under the general tab that says "show icon in notification area when connected".

Now you will see a computer icon in the lower right corner of your screen. Place your mouse over it without clicking. You should get a ballon that tells you what it is and the speed.

If 100mb then its not your lan but, most likely, your internet connection.

If 10mb in the same network properties and then nic properties you can set the speed and duplex of the nic. 100mb and full duplex.

10 Tips for Wireless Home Network Security

Many folks setting up wireless home networks rush through the job to get their Internet connectivity working as quickly as possible. That's totally understandable. It's also quite risky as numerous security problems can result. Today's Wi-Fi networking products don't always help the situation as configuring their security features can be time-consuming and non-intuitive. The recommendations below summarize the steps you should take to improve the security of your home wireless network.

1. Change Default Administrator Passwords (and Usernames)

At the core of most Wi-Fi home networks is an access point or router. To set up these pieces of equipment, manufacturers provide Web pages that allow owners to enter their network address and account information. These Web tools are protected with a login screen (username and password) so that only the rightful owner can do this. However, for any given piece of equipment, the logins provided are simple and very well-known to hackers on the Internet. Change these settings immediately.

2. Turn on (Compatible) WPA / WEP Encryption

All Wi-Fi equipment supports some form of encryption. Encryption technology scrambles messages sent over wireless networks so that they cannot be easily read by humans. Several encryption technologies exist for Wi-Fi today. Naturally you will want to pick the strongest form of encryption that works with your wireless network. However, the way these technologies work, all Wi-Fi devices on your network must share the identical encryption settings. Therefore you may need to find a "lowest common demoninator" setting.

3. Change the Default SSID

Access points and routers all use a network name called the SSID. Manufacturers normally ship their products with the same SSID set. For example, the SSID for Linksys devices is normally "linksys." True, knowing the SSID does not by itself allow your neighbors to break into your network, but it is a start. More importantly, when someone finds a default SSID, they see it is a poorly configured network and are much more likely to attack it. Change the default SSID immediately when configuring wireless security on your network.

4. Enable MAC Address Filtering

Each piece of Wi-Fi gear possesses a unique identifier called the physical address or MAC address. Access points and routers keep track of the MAC addresses of all devices that connect to them. Many such products offer the owner an option to key in the MAC addresses of their home equipment, that restricts the network to only allow connections from those devices. Do this, but also know that the feature is not so powerful as it may seem. Hackers and their software programs can fake MAC addresses easily.

5. Disable SSID Broadcast

In Wi-Fi networking, the wireless access point or router typically broadcasts the network name (SSID) over the air at regular intervals. This feature was designed for businesses and mobile hotspots where Wi-Fi clients may roam in and out of range. In the home, this roaming feature is unnecessary, and it increases the likelihood someone will try to log in to your home network. Fortunately, most Wi-Fi access points allow the SSID broadcast feature to be disabled by the network administrator.

6. Do Not Auto-Connect to Open Wi-Fi Networks

Connecting to an open Wi-Fi network such as a free wireless hotspot or your neighbor's router exposes your computer to security risks. Although not normally enabled, most computers have a setting available allowing these connections to happen automatically without notifying you (the user). This setting should not be enabled except in temporary situations.

7. Assign Static IP Addresses to Devices

Most home networkers gravitate toward using dynamic IP addresses. DHCP technology is indeed easy to set up. Unfortunately, this convenience also works to the advantage of network attackers, who can easily obtain valid IP addresses from your network's DHCP pool. Turn off DHCP on the router or access point, set a fixed IP address range instead, then configure each connected device to match. Use a private IP address range (like 10.0.0.x) to prevent computers from being directly reached from the Internet.

8. Enable Firewalls On Each Computer and the Router

Modern network routers contain built-in firewall capability, but the option also exists to disable them. Ensure that your router's firewall is turned on. For extra protection, consider installing and running personal firewall software on each computer connected to the router.

9. Position the Router or Access Point Safely

Wi-Fi signals normally reach to the exterior of a home. A small amount of signal leakage outdoors is not a problem, but the further this signal reaches, the easier it is for others to detect and exploit. Wi-Fi signals often reach through neighboring homes and into streets, for example. When installing a wireless home network, the position of the access point or router determines its reach. Try to position these devices near the center of the home rather than near windows to minimize leakage.

10. Turn Off the Network During Extended Periods of Non-Use

The ultimate in wireless security measures, shutting down your network will most certainly prevent outside hackers from breaking in! While impractical to turn off and on the devices frequently, at least consider doing so during travel or extended periods offline. Computer disk drives have been known to suffer from power cycle wear-and-tear, but this is a secondary concern for broadband modems and routers.

If you own a wireless router but are only using it wired (Ethernet) connections, you can also sometimes turn off Wi-Fi on a broadband router without powering down the entire network.

Router

A router (pronounced /'rautər/ in the USA, pronounced /'ru:tər/ in the UK and Ireland, or either pronunciation in Australia and Canada) is a computer whose software and hardware are usually tailored to the tasks of routing and forwarding information. Routers generally contain a specialized operating system (e.g. Cisco's IOS or Juniper Networks JUNOS and JUNOSe or Extreme Networks XOS), RAM, NVRAM, flash memory, and one or more processors, as well as two or more network interfaces. High-end routers contain many processors and specialized Application-specific integrated circuits (ASIC) and do a great deal of parallel processing. Chassis based systems like the Nortel MERS-8600 or ERS-8600 routing switch, (pictured right) have multiple ASICs on every module and allow for a wide variety of LAN, MAN, METRO, and WAN port technologies or other connections that are customizable. Much simpler routers are used where cost is important and the demand is low, for example in providing a home internet service. With appropriate software (such as Untangle, SmoothWall, XORP or Quagga), a standard PC can act as a router.

Routers connect two or more logical subnets, which do not necessarily map one-to-one to the physical interfaces of the router.[1] The term layer 3 switch often is used interchangeably with router, but switch is really a general term without a rigorous technical definition. In marketing usage, it is generally optimized for Ethernet LAN interfaces and may not have other physical interface types.

Routers operate in two different planes [2]:

  • Control Plane, in which the router learns the outgoing interface that is most appropriate for forwarding specific packets to specific destinations,
  • Forwarding Plane, which is responsible for the actual process of sending a packet received on a logical interface to an outbound logical interface.

4 steps to set up your home wireless network Router


You can use a wireless network to share Internet access, files, printers, and more. Or you can use it to surf the Web while you're sitting on your couch or in your yard. Plus, it's easier to install than you think.

There are 4 steps to creating a wireless network:

1.

Choose your wireless equipment

2.

Connect your wireless router

3.

Configure your wireless router

4.

Connect your computers

For Windows XP users, Windows XP Service Pack 2 is not required for wireless networking, but it does make things much easier. Service Pack 2 also helps protect you against hackers, worms, and other Internet intruders.

1.

Choose your wireless equipment

The first step is to make sure that you have the equipment you need. As you're looking for products in stores or on the Internet, you might notice that you can choose equipment that supports three different wireless networking technologies: 802.11a, 802.11b, and 802.11g. We recommend 802.11g, because it offers excellent performance and is compatible with almost everything.

Shopping list

Broadband Internet connection

Wireless router

A computer with built-in wireless networking support or a wireless network adapter

A wireless router

The router converts the signals coming across your Internet connection into a wireless broadcast, sort of like a cordless phone base station. Be sure to get a wireless router, and not a wireless access point.

A wireless network adapter

Network adapters wirelessly connect your computer to your wireless router. If you have a newer computer you may already have wireless capabilities built in. If this is the case, then you will not need a wireless network adapter. If you need to purchase an adapter for a desktop computer, buy a USB wireless network adapter. If you have a laptop, buy a PC card-based network adapter. Make sure that you have one adapter for every computer on your network.

Note: To make setup easy, choose a network adapter made by the same vendor that made your wireless router. For example, if you find a good price on a Linksys router, choose a Linksys network adapter to go with it. To make shopping even easier, buy a bundle, such as those available from D-Link, Netgear, Linksys, Microsoft, and Buffalo. If you have a desktop computer, make sure that you have an available USB port to plug the wireless network adapter into. If you don't have any open USB ports, buy a hub to add additional ports.

2.

Connect your wireless router

Since you'll be temporarily disconnected from the Internet, print these instructions before you go any further.

First, locate your cable modem or DSL modem and unplug it to turn it off.

Next, connect your wireless router to your modem. Your modem should stay connected directly to the Internet. Later, after you've hooked everything up, your computer will wirelessly connect to your router, and the router will send communications through your modem to the Internet.

How to go wireless

Next, connect your router to your modem:

Note: The instructions below apply to a Linksys wireless router. The ports on your router may be labeled differently, and the images may look different on your router. Check the documentation that came with your equipment for additional assistance.

If you currently have your computer connected directly to your modem: Unplug the network cable from the back of your computer, and plug it into the port labeled Internet, WAN, or WLAN on the back of your router.

If you do not currently have a computer connected to the Internet: Plug one end of a network cable (included with your router) into your modem, and plug the other end of the network cable into the Internet, WAN, or WLAN port on your wireless router.

If you currently have your computer connected to a router: Unplug the network cable connected to the Internet, WAN, or WLAN port from your current router, and plug this end of the cable into the Internet, WAN, or WLAN port on your wireless router. Then, unplug any other network cables, and plug them into the available ports on your wireless router. You no longer need your original router, because your new wireless router replaces it.

wireless modem lights

Next, plug in and turn on your cable or DSL modem. Wait a few minutes to give it time to connect to the Internet, and then plug in and turn on your wireless router. After a minute, the Internet, WAN, or WLAN light on your wireless router should light up, indicating that it has successfully connected to your modem.




3.

Configure your wireless router

wireless cables

Using the network cable that came with your wireless router, you should temporarily connect your computer to one of the open network ports on your wireless router (any port that isn't labeled Internet, WAN, or WLAN). If you need to, turn your computer on. It should automatically connect to your router.

Next, open Internet Explorer and type in the address to configure your router.

You might be prompted for a password. The address and password you use will vary depending on what type of router you have, so refer to the instructions included with your router.

As a quick reference, this table shows the default addresses, usernames, and passwords for some common router manufacturers.

RouterAddressUsernamePassword

3Com

http://192.168.1.1

admin

admin

D-Link

http://192.168.0.1

admin

*

Linksys

http://192.168.1.1

admin

admin

Microsoft Broadband

http://192.168.2.1

admin

admin

Netgear

http://192.168.0.1

admin

password

Internet Explorer will show your router's configuration page. Most of the default settings should be fine, but you should configure three things:

1.

Your wireless network name, known as the SSID. This name identifies your network. You should choose something unique that none of your neighbors will be using.

2.

Wireless encryption (WEP) or Wi-Fi Protected Access (WPA), which help protect your wireless network. For most routers, you will provide a passphrase that your router uses to generate several keys. Make sure your passphrase is unique and long (you don't need to memorize it).

3.

Your administrative password, which controls your wireless network. Just like any other password, it should not be a word that you can find in the dictionary, and it should be a combination of letters, numbers, and symbols. Be sure you can remember this password, because you'll need it if you ever have to change your router's settings.

The exact steps you follow to configure these settings will vary depending on the type of router you have. After each configuration setting, be sure to click Save Settings, Apply, or OK to save your changes.

Now, you should disconnect the network cable from your computer.

4.

Connect your computers

If your computer does not have wireless network support built in, plug your network adapter into your USB port, and place the antenna on top of your computer (in the case of a desktop computer), or insert the network adapter into an empty PC card slot (in the case of a laptop). Windows XP will automatically detect the new adapter, and may prompt you to insert the CD that came with your adapter. The on-screen instructions will guide you through the configuration process.

Note: The steps below only apply if you're using Windows XP Service Pack 2. If you're running Windows XP and you don't have Service Pack 2 yet, plug your computer into your wireless router and download and install Windows XP Service Pack 2.

Windows XP should show an icon with a notification that says it has found a wireless network.

Windows screen shot

Follow these steps to connect your computer to your wireless network:

1.

Right-click the wireless network icon in the lower-right corner of your screen, and then click View Available Wireless Networks. If you run into any problems, consult the documentation that came with your network adapter. Don't be afraid to call their tech support.

2.

The Wireless Network Connection window should appear and you should see your wireless network listed with the network name you chose. If you don't see your network, click Refresh network list in the upper-left corner. Click your network, and then click Connect in the lower-right corner.

Choose wireless connection

3.

Windows XP prompts you to enter a key. Type the encryption key that you wrote down earlier in both the Network key and Confirm network key boxes, and then click Connect.

4.

Windows XP will show its progress as it connects to your network. After you're connected, you can now close the Wireless Network Connection window. You're done.

Note: If the Wireless Network Connection window continues to show Acquiring Network Address, you may have mistyped the encryption key.